Azzedine Alaia 1980s
(I am wearing the same dress in my photo.)
The first dress is part of the exposition American Woman at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC which I'll be visiting in the near future.
Dresses from Charles James are extremely rare in the market and my prediction is that designs by Azzedine Alaia will be in the same category in about 30 more years. His dresses in particular are getting more difficult to find.
Next time that I see Mr. Alaia I'm going to ask him if the dress above was inspired by Charles James. My guess is that the answer will be "Oui".